Hair porosity and curly hair: why it’s the one thing your routine has been missing
If your products aren’t working, your technique isn’t necessarily wrong. Your porosity might just be misunderstood.
We hear it all the time in the salon.
“I’ve tried everything.”
“I don’t know why my curls are so dry.”
“These products don’t seem to work on my hair.”
If any of this sounds familiar, we’re here to affirm you. You are not doing it wrong. You are likely missing one key piece of information that changes everything.
Your porosity.
Once you understand your hair’s porosity, you’ll better understand how to choose and layer products. Your routine gets better and you’ll become less frustrated.
Let’s walk through it all for a deeper understanding.
What is hair porosity, exactly?
Porosity is your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. Think of each strand like a roof made of tiny overlapping shingles. Those shingles are your hairs cuticle layer. How open or closed that cuticle layer is will determine how easily moisture can enter, and how well that moisture can be held once it does. There are three porosity types: low, medium, and high. Each one behaves differently, and needs a different approach to thrive.
Low porosity hair
Low porosity hair has cuticles that lie very flat and tightly together. That may sound like a good thing because low porosity hair tends to be healthy and resistant to damage. But those tightly closed cuticles also mean moisture has a hard time getting in.
What low porosity hair often looks and feels like:
Products sit on top of the hair rather than absorbing
Hair takes a long time to get fully wet
Product buildup happens quickly
Hair can feel coated or weighed down
What low porosity hair actually needs:
Whether it be from a steamer or dryer heat during a deep conditioning process, heat is your best friend. This helps lift the cuticle just enough to let moisture in. After that, the goal is always to seal it in.
Lighter water-based products that will penetrate the hair are key. Heavy butters and thick creams tend to layer on the surface and contribute to that overall buildup feel.
Clarifying regularly matters too. Low porosity hair build up faster, which make it even harder for moisture to get through. Clarifying the hair followed by your regular shampoo will create a clean canvas for product application.
Normal porosity hair
Normal porosity hair is what professionals consider to have a balanced cuticle layer. The cuticles are slightly raised to allow moisture in, while also being sealed enough to retain a sufficient amount of moisture. Products tend to work well, routines feel manageable, and results are relatively consistent.
What normal porosity hair often looks and feels like:
Hair absorbs products fairly easily
Holds styles well and for a reasonable amount of time
Color processes predictable
Responds well to most curl routines
What normal porosity hair needs:
Consistency. Normal porosity hair is forgiving, but it still benefits from regular deep conditioning, cleansing frequency, and avoiding heat overuse that could tip it toward higher porosity over time.
If you have normal porosity hair do not chase trends. If what you’ve been doing works continue that routine.
High porosity hair
High porosity hair has cuticles that are raised or even damaged, resulting in moisture entering and escaping quickly. Some textures, such as 9 & 10 (refer to our curl type blog here), are naturally more porous than others. Excessive heat, chemical processing, hair color, and external environmental stress can all lead to the hair being more porous over time.
What high porosity hair often looks and feels like:
Hair absorbs water almost immediately but also dries out quickly
Frizz is a constant, even in low humidity
Hair breaks more easily and feels dry even after conditioning
Color fades faster than expected
What high porosity hair actually needs:
The goal with high porosity hair is to fill the gaps along the hair shaft by sealing the cuticle. Professional protein treatments help strengthen the hair shaft by filling gaps that are contributing to the moisture lose. Once the cuticle layer is filled, the hair will be able to retain moisture.
Heavier products and oils work well as sealants on high porosity hair, applied after rinsing the conditioner to lock in the moisture. To reduce frizz, anti-humidity products should be incorporated as well since open cuticles absorb moisture from the air.
If your porosity has become higher due to color, chemical treatments, or heat damage, know that it can be repaired over time with consistent, intentional care. Visit your local salon professional. Don’t give up hope.
How to figure out your porosity
The float tests is the easiest to perform for a better understanding of what this all means and how it relates to you. Simply drop one strand of clean hair into a glass of water and see whether it sinks or floats. If we’re being honest the density of the strand and whether or not the strand is squeaky clean will affect the results. The most accurate way to determine your porosity is to pay attention to how your performs under these conditions:
When you wet your hair doest it saturate immediately (high porosity), or does water bead up and roll off first (low porosity)?
When you apply products, do they absorb quickly or sit on the surface?
After conditioning, does your hair feel moisturized or dry?
How does your hair respond to humidity? Does it frizz or hold it’s shape pretty well?
Answering these questions will point you provide better clarity. And if you’re still unsure come visit us. We begin every appointment with a consultation and curl analysis.
Why this matters More in Oklahoma
The climate in Oklahoma can be extreme. Hot, dry summers. Cold, dry winters. Spring humidity that swings dramatically week to week. For curly textured hair, that means your hairs porosity is constantly adjusting to its environment.
Understanding your porosity helps you to anticipate how your hair will respond to the various seasonal fluctuations, allowing you build the appropriate curl routine. And this is true for any city. What works in one area may not work the same in another due to the climate shifts.
What we suggest next for you
If your routine consist of, online product trends, wondering, and guessing what works, then understanding your porosity is the missing link in your hair care routine. It’s the foundation to understanding how the products you choose will behave on your hair. We’ve given you the knowledge you need to better determine your porosity based on your hairs characteristics.
When you’re ready for a deeper conversation and analysis, come see us.
Because curly hair is our primary focus, rest assured our curl specialist can devise the proper curl routine specifically for your hair.
Reserve your appointment here and let us help you figure exactly what your curls have been longing for. As always, we hope you feel seen, heard, and loved today.
Your Curlfriends @ Helix House Salon
Helix House Salon is located in the Western Ave District of Oklahoma City. We specialize in curly, wavy, coily, and kinky textures- every curl type, every porosity level, every texture, for all women are welcome.